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Storm Chasing in the North Pacific
Breaking Wave Dissipation in Mixed Seas
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There are very few measurements of waves in the open ocean. Energy really is the key thing we're looking for. To improve the wave forecast for the Navy or the merchant marine, we need to understand how much energy is going into the waves and how much is coming out.
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Research Objectives
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Our long-term objective is to remotely estimate energy dissipation by wave breaking in the open ocean. Significant progress towards this goal has been made, where we validated remote observations of wind-wave breaking in the absence of swell. We have now extended this research to broad-banded wave fields, that is, mixed seas.
The specific objectives are to:
- Validate energy dissipation from the Phillips (1985) distribution using simultaneous in situ observations in broad-banded wave fields
- Determine the dependence of energy dissipation on wave age and frequency-directional spread
- Test the validity of a commonly used equilibrium approximation, in which energy dissipation is balanced by wind input
Remote observations (digital video recordings) will be processed using a Fourier-based method for breaking crest distribution, which has not yet been applied to broad-banded wave fields. In situ observations (pulse-coherent acoustic Doppler velocity profiles) will be made from a new free drifting platform and be processed using a structure function method.
Quantification of energy dissipation during wave breaking is essential for accurate modeling of waves and the evolution of sea states. Our research expands the validation, while evaluating the dependence of breaking on frequency-directional spreading, wave age, and wind stress. Potential applications of the results include improved global wave models for climate predictions and shipping-naval operations.
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Research Cruise Blogs
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Scientist at Work
Posted at The New York Times, Chief Scientist Jim Thomson blogged portions of his field journal during the weeks at sea in October 2012. |
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Mike at Sea
Graduate student Michael Schwendeman blogged about the research cruise and the collection of data that will serve as the basis for his Ph.D. dissertation on remote sensing techniques to quantify wave breaking turbulence in the open ocean. |
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More About This Research
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Publications
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Wave Measurements at Ocean Weather Station PAPA As part of a larger project to understand the impact of surface waves on the ocean mixed layer, APL-UW is measuring waves at Ocean Weather Station Papa, a long-term observational site at N 50°, W 145°. |
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29 Aug 2019
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SWIFT: Surface Wave Instrument Float with Tracking The Surface Wave Instrumentation Float with Tracking is a free drifting system to measure turbulence and noise at the ocean surface. |
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23 Jan 2012
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Wave Breaking in Mixed Seas Waves are generated by wind blowing across the ocean and dissipated by breaking, either as whitecaps or surf. This research aims to understand the breaking process and the resulting turbulence, especially in wave fields that are a mix of wind waves and swell. Measurements from APL-UW SWIFT instruments quantify the turbulence and the wave motions. Additional video measurements quantify the size distribution of the breakers. Applications include improved wave forecasting and parameterization of gas exchange. |
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12 Apr 2011
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Wave Dissipation and the Distribution of Breaking Crests The energy dissipation of breaking waves is quantified using simultaneous remote and in situ measurements. |
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Wave breaking dissipation observed by SWIFT drifters Thomson, J., "Wave breaking dissipation observed by SWIFT drifters," J. Atmos. Ocean. Technol., 29, 1866-1882, doi:10.1175/JTECH-D-12-00018.1, 2012. |
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More Info
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1 Dec 2012
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Energy dissipation rates during ocean wave breaking are estimated from high-resolution profiles of turbulent velocities collected within 1 m of the surface.The velocity profiles are obtained from a pulse-coherent acoustic Doppler sonar on a wave-following platform, termed a Surface Wave Instrument Float with Tracking, or "SWIFT", and the dissipation rates are estimated from the structure function of the velocity profiles. The purpose of the SWIFT is to maintain a constant range to the time-varying surface and thereby observe the turbulence in breaking crests (i.e., above the mean still water level). The Lagrangian quality is also useful to pre-filter wave orbital motions and mean currents from the velocity measurements, which are limited in magnitude by phase-wrapping in the coherent Doppler processing. Field testing and examples from both offshore whitecaps and nearshore surf breaking are presented. Dissipation is elevated (up to 10-3 m2 s-3) during strong breaking conditions, which are confirmed using surface videos recorded onboard the SWIFT. Although some velocity contamination is present from platform tilting and heaving, the structure of the velocity profiles is dominated by a turbulent cascade of eddies (i.e., the inertial sub-range). The noise, or uncertainty, in the dissipation estimates is shown to be normally distributed and uncorrelated with platform motion. Aggregated SWIFT measurements are shown to be useful in mapping wave breaking dissipation in space and time.
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A fourier-based method for the distribution of breaking crests from video observations Thomson, J., and A.T. Jessup, "A fourier-based method for the distribution of breaking crests from video observations," J. Atmos. Ocean. Technol., 26, 1663-1671, doi:10.1175/2009JTECHO622.1, 2009. |
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More Info
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1 Aug 2009
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A Fourier-based method is presented to process video observations of water waves and calculate the speed distribution of breaking crest lengths. The method has increased efficiency and robust statistics compared with conventional algorithms that assemble distributions from tracking individual crests in the time domain. The method is tested using field observations (video images of whitecaps) of fetch-limited breaking waves during case studies with low (6.7 m s-1), moderate (8.5 m s-1), and high (12.6 m s-1) wind speeds. The method gives distributions consistent with conventional algorithms, including breaking rates that are consistent with direct observations. Results are applied to obtain remote estimates of the energy dissipation associated with wave breaking.
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Energy dissipation and the spectral distribution of whitecaps Thomson, J., J.R. Gemmrich, and A.T. Jessup, "Energy dissipation and the spectral distribution of whitecaps," Geophys. Res. Lett, 36, doi:10.1029/2009GL038201, 2009. |
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More Info
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3 Jun 2009
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Energy dissipation by breaking water waves is quantified indirectly using remote observations (digital video recordings) and directly using in situ observations (acoustic Doppler velocity profiles). The analysis is the first validation using field data to test the Duncan-Phillips formulation relating energy dissipation to the spectral distribution of whitecap speeds and lengths. Energy dissipation estimates are in agreement over two orders of magnitude, and demonstrate a promising method for routine observation of wave breaking dynamics. Breaking statistics are partitioned into contributions from waves at the peak of the wave-height spectrum and waves at higher frequencies in the spectrum. Peak waves are found to be only 10% of the total breaking rate, however peak waves contribute up to 75% of the total dissipation rate. In addition, breaking statistics are found to depend on the peak wave steepness and the energy input by the wind.
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